Recommissioning A/C in a Peugeot 205GTI- a few questions

[sammee_p]

Hi, I'm a newbie here so go easy
I'm in Australia and have a 1992 Peugeot 205GTI. I've had the car for 4 years and intend to keep it long term. When I bought it, the previous owner had just had the A/C regassed, but the system was obviously leaking as the charge only lasted a few weeks. After some interrogation, he confessed that it hadn't worked properly since he bought it as the second owner in 1998. Our summers are getting hotter and I'm pretty keen to have working A/C!
The PO also confessed that the diagnosis he got was a failed TX valve or evaporator/TX o-rings. I picked up a NOS R134a TX for peanuts as it had been sitting on the shelf for years gathering dust (note that the system was originally R12). I removed the best part of the dash which should have given fairly easy access to the heater box and took the car to the A/C specialist with the best reputation I could find in my area. After half a day, he called me to say that after much head scratching, the job might be beyond him and he had no idea how many hours work was involved! At least he was honest The system has been sans gas for 4 years, so I ordered a replacement R/D from Heatcraft to install. I have the heater box out and the evaporator sitting on the bench so most of the hard work is done (or the project has only just begun...)

So where does that leave me then? I'm a competent home mechanic/restorer/rally car builder when I'm not being an analytical chemist so with some research (I've read a lot on here), I don't see why I can't do this myself I have access to top notch vacuum pumps at work (well, nobody's going to miss one over the weekend...) and have been eyeing off manifolds on eBay (R12 specifically, but from what I see a R134a set would be OK for this application with adapters- correct?). I'm tempted to put Hychill in the system and have noticed this thread: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=7666, hopefully allnatural will have some helpful suggestions for me I'm on the understanding that I don't need a licence of any sort to purchase this (from Bursons as I'm in Tassie)- am I right? Now time for a few noob questions:
- Do I need to apply any kind of sealant to joints?
- Are the green O-rings I got from my local Heatcraft OK with hychill? I intend to replace them all.
- How about my R134a TX valve?
- If the TX (and possibly R/D) is for R134a and everything else is for R12, is this a problem?
- Should I replace the evaporator (or rebuild the compressor) as a matter of course considering it hasn't been used in over 10 years?
- If so, where can I find some info about rebuilding compressors? I believe it's a Sanden but I'll have to check.
- How long do I need to hold the system under vacuum before recharging? Will a long period damage the R/D?

And finally...
- Urban legend has it that 'A/C never works in 205's because the condensor is too small'... Does this sound like bollocks? Both the evaporator and condensor look pretty darned big to me

Apologies for all the questions, I have another thread detailing the removal of the heater box happening on the Aussiefrogs forum if anyone is interested
I've got a 405 as well that might get the same treatment if this is successful (A/C works but is a little feeble, the receiver/dryer is all milky though and I bet the evaporator is full of muck like the 205 one was...)

Any help is much appreciated!

[Tom Greenleaf]

If at all available and you have help I think you should keep it R-12. If not 134a as personally alternatives can be a hassle to get help with and you are on your own.

My experience is that the O rings that are good now will stay good with 134a as will hoses if old enough they will resist leaking thru the rubber after years if ok now. R-12 was king of refrigerants and still available here anyway. Getting it recovered is becoming a problem and many shops won't deal with both anymore.

The R-12 and 134a debate is like margarine and butter. You never hear that butter is so good it tastes just like Margarine do you? For the whole job the difference in product price doesn't really count but service if needed afterwards does and should be considered.

Remember that the charge of anything but OE fill will take careful attention to get right and IMO at best you get 80% of OE performance which is plenty for many folks.

BTW - you can get gauges (you called it a manifold - same thing) with adaptors so you can use same set on either refrigerant! Also know that the sight glass on R/D is not accurate with alternatives. Lots to be considered but either choice of R-12 or 134a could save you troubles down the road as said getting help if needed,

T

[sammee_p]

Unfortunately R12 is banned here and I need a licence for R134a

[Tom Greenleaf]

Arggh! I think Canada did that too. Stupid but do what you have to do. I don't have exacting instructions on Hychill. I'd get the license for 134a if it's not a huge hassle.

A while back a rep from the makers of Hychill was here and seems they do have strong customer support which you may need to get this right - or as right as the product can do. I only know it's in the flammable category - not what I would choose if alternatives were available but I don't make the rules.

You'll need to know exact % of how much to use vs any known OE charge and specific charging procedures which I don't know honestly. My guess is the manufacturer will be a good resource for the switch. Buy and read a can and get some hard data on the ins and outs of it.

I'm at a loss to advise much given the situation,

T